I've never really understood why Bond himself doesn't wear a chronograph. Perhaps he feels the extra clutter on the dial is unbecoming to an agent of Her Majesty's Secret Service. Maybe he simply doesn't have time to reset the counters in the middle of a pitched gun battle. Whatever the reason, it's a shame. The enhanced gadgetry of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph (Omega ref 2210.50.00) would be a perfect fit for that sinewy wrist.
Incidentally, if you're into Bond memorabilia, you can pick up a Casino Royale commemoration Planet Ocean 600M on the pre-owned market. Like many of the Bond-edition Omegas, it features some nice detailing: in this case a bright orange '007' gun logo at the base of the second hand.
Detailing on the Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph is just as beautiful, though of course not Bond-oriented. Pick up the chrono on the pre-owned circuit, and you'll get a lot of well-placed design thought for your money. We're talking solidly lumed indices and hands (the Planet Ocean 600M hands are lovely, bold, twin arrows). Even the chrono hand and counters have lume, as does the reference pip on the rotating bezel, which is done in the same yellow as the rest.
The dial of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph proudly bears the legend 'Co-Axial Chronometer'. Omega makes a big deal of its co-axial escapement, and rightly so. Co-axial escapements are the most modern form of energy transfer in luxury watches. They are a blend of lever and detent escapements, and achieve excellent reliability by removing almost all friction from the escape process. Co-axial escapements require fewer service interventions over the course of their lifetime, and generally exhibit greater accuracy.
Omega produced the first ever commercially available co-axial wristwatch, the Calibre 2500, in 1999. Ever since, it has proudly drawn attention to those wristwatches it produces with a co-axial escapement at the heart of the calibre. Talking of which: the movement behind the dial of the Planet Ocean Chronograph is Omega's self-winding 3313 calibre. It has a free sprung balance, a column wheel mechanism, and a power reserve of 52 hours. Unfortunately, you can't see it beating away behind an exhibition caseback because there isn't one. Instead, you get a pretty hefty-looking stainless steel back, on which Omega has engraved its Seamaster 'seahorse' logo. You'll see the same beast on the back of (among others) the heavy-duty Seamaster PLOPROF (a luxury dive watch designed to operate at up to 1200 metres below sea level).
Calibre 3313 has a date window, 30-minute and one-hour chrono counters, a chrono hand, and running seconds. It's a chronometer, which means it is certified to maintain accuracy by the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (COSC). The movement is nominally protected by a helium escape valve—though in reality this feature only comes into play if the watch is worn for extended periods of time by divers working at extreme depth. As the case is water resistant to 600 m, that's a distinct possibility. If you only go down and back up again, though, and don't spend much time in a helium-rich environment, you don't need to worry too much about the valve. It's a bell and a whistle, nothing more, and it certainly doesn't detract from the visual appeal of the watch.
The glass is sapphire crystal, and the bracelet and folding clasp are in stainless steel.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph 2210.50.00 is one of my favourite recent Omegas. The clean lines, the silky steel case, the retro dial and modern-looking bezel—everything about this luxury watch says 'style'. But the build quality says 'tool'. And that's just what you should get in a modern dive watch.
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Image Credit – officialwatches.com vedere di piu replicas rolex e Chopard Xtravaganza
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